Frequently asked questions
The questions sellers ask most often, grouped by topic. Plain answers from over a decade of buying junk cars across all 50 states. If your situation isn’t covered, give us a call.
The basics
How the process works, who we are, and what to expect.
How does selling my car to Cash Auto Salvage work?
Submit your car's year, make, model, and ZIP on our online form. You'll get a real cash offer in about 90 seconds. If you accept, we schedule a free pickup. The tow driver brings cash or a check, you sign over the title, and the car leaves. Whole process is usually 1-3 days.
Is the offer really binding?
Yes. The number you see is the number we pay — we don't lowball you when the tow truck arrives. The only exception: if the car is materially different from what was described (e.g., the engine was said to run but it's seized), the offer can be revised. We document everything.
How long is my offer good for?
7 days from when we issue it. After 7 days, scrap-metal markets and parts demand may shift, so we'd want to refresh the quote. Just resubmit; takes 90 seconds.
Do you really cover all 50 states?
Yes — all 50 states plus Washington, D.C. Coverage in Alaska is region-specific (Anchorage and Fairbanks areas are typically reachable; bush Alaska requires a call). Hawaii pickups vary by island.
Are you a real company? Who runs it?
Cash Auto Salvage was founded in 2014 in Rochester, New York. Co-founders Marc Skirvin and Joe Sebastian Jr. run the company. You can read our story and meet the team on our about page.
How long have you been in business?
Twelve-plus years. Over 42,000 cars purchased. We've built relationships with licensed local tow operators in every state, which is how we maintain free pickup nationwide.
Pricing and payouts
What your car is worth, why, and what changes the offer.
How much can I get for my junk car?
Average payout across our purchase history is around $400, with the top 10% landing over $1,090. Working trucks pay strongest ($1,000-$2,400 typical). Submit your car for a real offer specific to your year, make, model, condition, and ZIP code.
How do you decide what my car is worth?
Year, make, model, condition (does it run, intact catalytic converter, body damage, mileage), location, and current scrap-metal prices. We pull from over 42,000 historical purchases to calibrate. The offer reflects what your specific car's parts and metal are actually worth.
Why do trucks pay more than cars?
Three reasons. Trucks weigh more (more steel = more scrap value). Truck parts have deeper resale demand — engines, transmissions, beds, axles. And in pickup-heavy regions (Texas, the rural Midwest, ranch country), the local parts market for trucks is unusually strong.
Will I get a better offer somewhere else?
Maybe. Get 2-3 quotes and compare. Variance of $50-$200 between buyers is normal. Variance of $500+ usually means one of them is either inflating to win the click or planning to lowball at pickup. We're comfortable being judged against that test.
Catalytic converter was stolen?
You may see a reduced offer without a catalytic converter present, but we still buy. The exact figure on your offer accounts for it.
What if my car has scrap or salvage title?
We buy salvage-titled, flood-titled, and rebuilt-titled cars regularly. Disclose the title status when you submit and the offer factors it in. Salvage and flood titles typically reduce the offer by $200-$400 vs. clean-title equivalents.
What's a 'fair' price for a junk car right now?
Our scrap prices page lays out the math by make and what drives the offer up vs. down. Short answer: a working sedan with intact catalytic converter typically pays $500-$1,200; a non-running sedan with cut cat lands $300-$700; a working full-size truck clears $1,200-$2,400.
Title and paperwork
What you need to sell, and what to do if you don't have it.
What if I don't have the title?
Often workable. The most common paths: request a duplicate title from your DMV ($5-$50, 1-2 weeks), apply for a bonded title if you bought the car without one, or use a mechanic's lien procedure for abandoned vehicles. See our selling-without-a-title guide for the full breakdown.
How do I sign the title correctly?
Each state's title is slightly different, but the basics: sign in the seller field on the back, print your name, fill in the buyer information (we'll send you the legal name), record the odometer reading, and don't sign anywhere else. See our state-by-state title-signing guides for the specifics.
Does the title need to be notarized?
In some states, yes — notably Pennsylvania, Ohio, Michigan, Oklahoma, North Carolina, Wyoming, Montana, Louisiana, Kentucky, and Arizona in some scenarios. We coordinate a notary visit at pickup if your state requires one.
What if the car is in a deceased family member's name?
You'll need court paperwork (Letters of Administration or Letters Testamentary) plus the original title. Some states allow a small-estate affidavit for vehicles under a certain value — that's the easier path when applicable. Tell us your state and we'll route to the right path.
Can someone else sign the title for me?
Only with a notarized power of attorney specifically for vehicle title transfer. A general POA isn't enough for the DMV. If the registered owner is deceased, ill, or out of country, contact us — there are workarounds.
What if I'm still making payments on the car?
Yes — we work with the lender. Once the loan is settled (or the offer pays it down enough to clear the lien), the title transfers. The math has to make sense — if you owe more than the car is worth as junk, that gap is on you. Tell us up front and we'll walk through the numbers.
Do I need to remove my plates before pickup?
Yes — most states want the plates removed and either kept by you or returned to the DMV. The tow driver will remind you. Keep the plates somewhere safe; you'll need them for the cancellation paperwork.
Pickup and payment
When, how, and who shows up. Cash or check.
Is pickup really free?
Yes. The number in the offer is the number you get paid. Tow is included — no hidden fees, no deductions at pickup. If a buyer ever quotes a number then deducts at pickup, that's a red flag.
How fast can you pick up?
Most metro ZIP codes: same-day or next-day. Rural areas: 1-3 business days. Alaska and Hawaii are call-to-confirm by region. Major weather events can delay 24-48 hours.
How do I get paid?
Cash or check at pickup, your choice. Most sellers prefer the check — easier to deposit, paper trail. Either way, you get paid before the car leaves.
Do I have to be there for pickup?
Not always. If the car is at your home and you can leave the keys in a known spot (or with a neighbor), and the title is signed and ready for the driver, we can complete pickup without you there. Coordinate the specifics when you accept the offer.
Who actually shows up to tow the car?
A licensed, insured local tow operator — our partner network. They're not Cash Auto Salvage employees, but they're contracted to us and follow our paperwork standards. They'll have ID and the offer details before they arrive.
Will you do weekend pickups?
Often yes, depending on the local tow operator's schedule. Weekday pickups are the norm; we'll confirm availability when you accept the offer.
What if the car is buried or hard to access?
Tell us up front. Most cars are reachable with a flatbed even if they don't run, are blocked in, or have flat tires. Cars in garages or behind locked gates need keys or a workable path. We'll coordinate.
Special situations
Non-running, totaled, flooded, hail, missing parts, and the rest.
Will you buy a car that doesn't run?
Yes. Most of the cars we buy don't run. Engine seized, transmission failed, electrical issues, no battery — none of it's a problem. We tow free either way. See our sell-broken-car guide for more.
Will you buy a totaled car?
Yes. Insurance-totaled, accident-damaged, and rebuilt-title cars are common in our purchases. Disclose the title status up front and the offer factors it in.
What about a hurricane-flooded car?
Yes — common in coastal states after storm seasons. Flooded cars have lingering electrical and corrosion issues that show up months or years later. We buy with the flood title factored in. Disclose the flood damage when you submit.
Hail damage?
Yes. Hail-totaled cars are a recurring category in plains-state purchases. The body still has parts value even with extensive denting. Disclose the hail history; the offer accounts for it.
What if the engine or major parts are missing?
We buy. Tell us what's missing — engine, transmission, axle, catalytic converter — when you submit. The offer reflects what's left. A car with the engine pulled is still worth scrap-metal weight plus any remaining parts.
Will you buy a car with no keys?
Yes. Locksmith fees aren't usually needed — our tow partners can move a no-key vehicle with a flatbed. Just tell us up front so the right equipment shows up.
Can I sell a car that's been sitting in storage for years?
Yes. Long-park cars develop dead batteries, dry-rotted tires, gummed fuel systems, and stuck brakes — all standard. We tow with a flatbed if the car won't roll.
Do you buy RVs, motorhomes, boats, or trailers?
No — we only buy cars, trucks, vans, and SUVs. RVs, motorhomes, boats, and trailers fall outside what our buying network handles.
Still have a question?
The fastest way to get an answer about your specific car is to submit it for an offer — we’ll quote a real number and walk through any title, condition, or pickup details that come up. Or call us directly during business hours.
Done with the FAQ. Get a real offer.
Real offer in 90 seconds. Free pickup. Cash or check at pickup.