Non-running car

Sell a car with a blown engine

Blown engine, bad transmission, or it just won’t start — your car is still worth real cash, and fixing it is often more than it’s worth. Here’s the honest repair-or-sell math, what a non-runner actually pays, and how we tow it free.

42,000+
Cars purchased to date
$400
Average payout
$1,090
Top 10% payout

Repair it or sell it? Do the math first.

A blown engine or a dead transmission forces one decision before anything else: is this car worth fixing? The answer is almost always a number. If the repair costs more than the car will be worth afterit’s done — which is common on older, high-mileage vehicles — you’re pouring money into a car you’d still struggle to sell. Here’s what the big repairs typically run:

FailureTypical repair
Blown engine / engine replacement
Used-engine swaps land at the low end; a new engine with labor can top $10,000.
$3,000–$7,000+
Transmission replacement
Rebuilt or used units plus labor. New OEM transmissions run higher.
$2,500–$5,000
Blown head gasket
Labor-heavy, and it often signals further engine damage already done.
$1,000–$2,500
Won't start (major)
Could be a cheap starter or battery — or a dead engine. Diagnose before you spend.
$500–$3,000+
What it's worth

A dead engine doesn’t mean a dead car

The engine is one part. These are the things that still carry value on a non-running car — and why we can still write a real offer.

Transmission

A blown engine doesn't touch the transmission. A good gearbox is one of the most resold parts on the car.

Catalytic converter

Holds real value for its precious metals whether or not the engine runs — often a meaningful share of the whole offer.

Body, wheels & electronics

Panels, doors, glass, wheels, alternator, starter, infotainment — all resold individually regardless of engine condition.

Scrap metal

The steel floor under every car. A non-runner is still worth its weight in metal at current scrap prices.

Want the full breakdown of what carries value? See the most valuable parts on a car to scrap, or check current scrap prices.

How it works

Free flatbed, no jump-start required

The whole point of selling a non-runner is that you don't have to get it running. Four steps.

1Step 1
Get a real offer in ~90 seconds

Enter the year, make, model, and condition — tell us it doesn't run. You get a real number based on parts and metal value, not a teaser.

2Step 2
Lock in your price

The offer holds for 7 days. No haggling at pickup, no surprise deductions because the engine is dead — we already knew that when we quoted you.

3Step 3
Free flatbed tow

This is the part that matters for a non-runner: our partner brings a flatbed and tows it for free, anywhere in the country. You don't have to get it started or moved.

4Step 4
Get paid at pickup

Cash or check at the gate when the car is loaded. Sign the title (or use one of the no-title paths) and it's gone.

Is it worth fixing a blown engine?

Usually not, once the car has age and miles on it. An engine replacement on a 15-year-old sedan can cost more than the car was worth when it was running. The honest test is simple: get a repair quote, then look up what the car sells for in good condition. If the repair is anywhere close to that number, fixing it is a bad trade — you’d spend thousands to own a high-mileage car that’s now had major surgery, which buyers discount anyway.

There’s also the hidden risk: a “blown engine” on a car that’s been neglected often comes with company — a tired transmission, a rusted exhaust, deferred maintenance. You fix the headline problem and the next one shows up a month later. Selling as-is puts a firm number in your pocket today and makes the next owner’s problems their own.

Blown engine vs. bad transmission vs. won’t start

They feel similar from the driver’s seat but they’re different sales. A blown engineleaves a perfectly good transmission and catalytic converter on the car — both valuable. A bad transmissionleaves a good engine, which is one of the highest-value parts there is. “Won’t start” is the one worth diagnosing first, because it ranges from a $100 battery to a seized motor — if it’s cheap, fix it; if it’s the engine, sell it. Either way, the car has real value as parts and metal, and we buy all three situations every week.

We’ve bought more than 42,000+cars, and the large majority didn’t run when we picked them up. A non-running car isn’t an edge case for us — it’s the normal job. That’s why the offer is firm, the tow is free, and there’s no lecture about the engine when the driver arrives.

When you’re ready, the general process is the same as any car — see selling a broken or non-running car for the wider picture, or just get your offer.

FAQ

Blown-engine questions

Tap any to expand.

Can I sell a car with a blown engine?
Yes — and you don’t have to fix it first. A blown engine doesn’t make a car worthless; it still carries a good transmission, a catalytic converter, body parts, and scrap metal value. Most of the cars we buy don’t run. You get a firm offer, a free flatbed tow, and cash at pickup.
How much is a car with a blown engine worth?
It depends on the rest of the car, not just the dead engine. Across the cars we buy, the median payout is about $400 and the top 10% clear $1,090— and a non-runner with a good transmission and an intact catalytic converter lands well inside that range. The only way to see your number is to get a real offer.
Should I fix my blown engine or sell the car?
Do the math first. An engine replacement typically runs $3,000–$7,000 and a transmission $2,500–$5,000. If the repair costs more than the car will be worth afterit’s fixed — which is common on older, high-mileage cars — selling as-is usually comes out ahead. If you’re not sure the engine is actually gone, check the signs of a locked-up engine before you spend a dollar.
Do you buy cars with a bad transmission?
Yes. A failing or dead transmission is one of the most common reasons people sell to us. The engine, catalytic converter, and body still hold value. If you’re still deciding, here are the signs a transmission is going out — but a replacement rarely makes sense on a car that’s already worth junking.
Will you buy a car that won't start?
Absolutely. “Won’t start” covers everything from a $100 battery to a seized engine, so it’s worth a quick diagnosis first — but either way we buy it. You don’t need to get it running for pickup; the flatbed handles a dead car.
Does the car need to run for you to tow it?
No. Pickup is on a flatbed, so the car doesn’t need to start, drive, or even roll well. Flat tires, no battery, seized engine, stuck in park — none of it stops the tow, and the tow is free.

Don’t pour money into a dead engine.

Get a firm cash offer in about 90 seconds, then decide. No repair, no jump-start, no tow bill.

  • Free flatbed tow, runs or not
  • Paid by check or cash at pickup
  • No surprise deductions for the dead engine